Skin Advice for Women of Color: Do’s and Don’ts from a Black Esthetician

When it comes to caring for skin of color, there are unique needs and challenges that don’t always get the attention they deserve. As a black esthetician, I know that women of color often deal with concerns like hyperpigmentation, sensitivity, and skin that doesn’t respond to every product on the market the same way. Which is why it's so beneficial to know what makes your skin tick.

So today I'll be sharing some of my top do’s and don’ts to help you build a healthy, effective skincare routine that enhances your natural beauty, protects your melanin-rich tone, and keeps your skin thriving.

Do: Use Sunscreen Daily

One common myth is that skin of color doesn’t need sunscreen. This myth has exploded because melanin, the pigment responsible for the natural color of skin, does provide some degree of protection from UV radiation, which is why people with darker skin tones generally have a lower incidence of sunburn and certain types of skin cancer compared to those with lighter skin. This has led to the mistaken belief that people with melanin-rich skin don’t need any additional protection.  However, this is far from the truth! While melanin does offer some natural protection, it’s not enough to fully shield against the harmful effects of the sun, like premature aging, hyperpigmentation (the very issue you are working so hard to get rid of), and the risk of skin cancer, which, although rarer in people with skin of color, is often diagnosed at later stages with poorer outcomes.

Pro Tip: Look for a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30. Mineral sunscreens with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide are great options, and some newer formulas are now tinted to avoid the white cast on darker skin tones.

Don’t: Over-Exfoliate

Exfoliating can be beneficial for brightening and smoothing skin, but too much can lead to irritation and worsen hyperpigmentation. Skin of color can be more reactive, so overdoing it on exfoliants—especially harsh ones like physical scrubs or high-strength chemical exfoliants—can backfire.

Pro Tip: Stick to gentle exfoliants, like an enzyme powder, lactic acid or mandelic acid, and aim to exfoliate no more than 1-2 times per week. This approach minimizes the risk of irritation while keeping your skin smooth and bright.

Do: Prioritize Hydration

Dehydrated skin is a common concern for women of color. This is often due to unique structural and functional differences in their skin.  For example, studies show that skin of color can have a higher transepidermal water loss (TEWL), meaning it loses moisture from the outermost layer more easily than lighter skin tones. This happens because skin of color often has a more compact stratum corneum (the skin’s outer layer), which can sometimes lead to decreased natural moisture retention, contributing to dehydration.

So keeping your skin hydrated helps to maintain a healthy skin barrier, prevents dullness, and can improve skin texture.

Pro Tip: Opt for a hydrating toner and a serum that includes hyaluronic acid or glycerin to keep your skin plump. Seal it in with a good moisturizer, and if your skin is especially dry, consider a light facial oil as the last step.

Don’t: Skip Patch Testing New Products

Skin of color can be more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and sensitivity. Before adding a new product to your routine, always test it on a small patch of skin to avoid any adverse reactions.

Pro Tip: Test new products behind your ear or on your jawline to see if there’s any redness, irritation, or darkening before applying it all over your face.

Do: Use Ingredients That Target Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation is a major concern for women of color, especially after acne or skin trauma. Ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, and alpha arbutin can help fade dark spots without causing irritation.

Pro Tip: Incorporate a vitamin C serum in the morning and a product with niacinamide at night to keep dark spots at bay. Just remember to stay consistent—treating hyperpigmentation takes time!

Don’t: Sleep in Your Makeup

Leaving makeup on overnight can clog pores, lead to breakouts, and ultimately worsen hyperpigmentation or uneven skin tone. Make it a habit to remove your makeup before bed, even on those extra-long days.

Pro Tip: Try a double-cleansing method, using an oil cleanser followed by a gentle foaming cleanser, to ensure that all traces of makeup are removed without drying out your skin.

Do: Embrace Gentle, pH-Balanced Cleansers

Many cleansers on the market can be too harsh and stripping, which is problematic for skin of color that thrives with a healthy moisture barrier. A gentle, pH-balanced cleanser cleans without leaving your skin feeling tight or dry.

Pro Tip: Look for cleansers labeled “hydrating” or “gentle.” Avoid any products with harsh sulfates or astringents, as these can strip natural oils and disrupt your skin's balance.

Don’t: Ignore the Importance of Diet

Your skin reflects what you eat, and for women of color, a nutrient-rich diet can make a noticeable difference in skin health and glow. Foods rich in antioxidants, omega-3 fatty acids, and hydration-boosting ingredients all support a clear, balanced complexion.

Pro Tip: Incorporate leafy greens, berries, nuts, and seeds into your diet. Stay hydrated by drinking plenty of water, and limit sugary, processed foods to keep inflammation in check.

Do: Visit a Skincare Professional Familiar with Skin of Color

Finding a professional who understands the nuances of skin of color can make a significant difference in your skincare journey. An esthetician with extensive experience treating skin of color can provide you with customized advice and treatments.

Pro Tip: If you're struggling with specific issues like hyperpigmentation, acne, or sensitivity, consider booking a consultation with an esthetician who specializes in skin of color. They can guide you toward the best treatments and products for your skin type.

Ready to create a skincare routine that meets the unique needs of skin of color? Book a virtual skincare consultation with me today to get personalized advice on your skin concerns and create a regimen that works for you. Let’s help your skin glow year-round!